Frequently asked questions about offroading
Why do we have to air-down our tires for every run?
There are three main reasons for airing down.
It will soften the ride and greatly reduce getting bounced around in the passenger compartment. Imagine dribbling a basketball. Fully inflated, the ball has a lot of bounce. Let half of the air out, and the ball simply goes splat when it hits the ground.
Deflating the tire increases the tread footprint for much greater traction. Think of a tank or bulldozer caterpillar tread wrapping itself over obstacles, maximizing the contact area even over oddly shaped hard obstacles. In the case of sand, mud, or snow – this increased and flexible traction helps prevent getting stuck.
Less internal air pressure will reduce the risk of a puncture. Picture a balloon, fully inflated. Touch it slightly with a sharp object, and it pops. But grab a semi deflated balloon, and you could poke a pencil inches into it without it bursting. The balloon wall simply envelops a sharp object.
What is the best psi to air-down to?
It technically depends on the weight of your vehicle and the strength (load bearing) of your particular make/model/size of tire, but we usually recommend for Jeeps and most SUV’s that weigh around 4-5000 pounds, running typical 33 or 35 inch AT/MT tires to air down to 15-18 psi.
Hardcore rock crawling, deep mud, or sand dune play may call for lower psi’s in the 8-12 range – but that runs the risk of debeading the tire (the tire comes loose from the rim) unless you are running wheels (rims) with specialized beadlocks.
Explain how to shift into 4wd on our Jeep.
Shifting in and out of 4-Low can be tricky at first, especially in a Jeep. New Jeeps can be difficult to shift for the first few tries, until the gears wear in a little. Ask the dealership or a fellow Jeeper to help you.
First, come to a complete stop, or at least a very slow crawl not more than 2-3 mph. Most of the drivers that I know prefer to stop completely.
Shift your Transmission from D to Neutral.
From 4-Hi, push the transfer case shifter sideways toward the Passenger, and then yank it towards the rear. The first pause puts it into Neutral. Pull hard some more until it clicks into 4-Low. The indicator in your dashboard will show what setting you are in.
Then, go back to the Transmission shifter and return it to Drive.
When should I use 4wd-Hi or 4wd-Low?
Only use 4wd on loose or slippery road conditions that allow your tires to “slip & slide” so that you don’t bind up your drivetrain. Do NOT engage 4wd on dry solid surfaces, such as paved asphalt unless it is raining hard or snow.
You can shift from 2wd to 4wd-Hi (in a Jeep) on the fly; so long as your speed is under 50 mph. If the road is slippery enough to need 4wd, you shouldn’t be speeding over 50 mph anyway.
4wd-Low is for speeds well under 25 mph. You are trading speed for greater torque, to allow you to climb over obstacles and ascend steep hills. 4wd-Low will also help you to reduce speed on steep descents.
Do not stay in 4wd-Low if you are zipping along at speeds approaching or exceeding 25 mph (go back to 4wd-Hi). To shift out of 4wd-Low, you need to stop or slow down to a crawl; put the transmission in Neutral; push the Transfer case shifter towards the front, and then a tad sideways towards driver, and then towards front into 4wd-Hi. Shift the transmission back to Drive.
What do you do when a large rock is blocking your path?
Drive around it if you can (duhh), but if it is too tall to clear your differentials (which are the lowest part of your vehicle) – then you should place one of your front tires directly in line with the rock and slowly climb over it. As a Beginner, don’t be embarrassed to ask for someone to get out and “Spot” to coach you over the obstacle, since you are not able to see what is going on under your vehicle.
How to drive in sand?
Speed and momentum are your friend. 4wd-Hi is usually better than 4wd-Low because you want to keep up your speed. However, in 4wd-Hi you should turn off your Traction Control and Electronic Stability Control. (On a Jeep, press and hold the Traction Control button for 10 seconds).
If your front wheels lose control, try twisting the steering wheel back & forth slightly to regain traction.
Avoid sudden acceleration or abrupt braking, so keep your distance and do not tailgate.
When you do have to climb a small sand bern -- get a running start, accelerate gradually, and hit that hill with speed.
If you are going to be in sand for a while, consider airing down a few extra psi.
I consider myself a good driver and have a well-maintained rig. Where can I find some easy trails that I can do on my own to get some experience before going out with a group?
NEVER head out into the boonies alone (meaning just your solo vehicle). Stuff happens. You blink and hit a rock. The road gives way under you. A tire gets damaged. Something nasty happens under the hood. We have seen highly experienced Jeepers in meticulously maintained vehicles break down on trails – so it can happen to anyone driving anything.
Let’s say it is something simple, like needing to change a tire. Do you realize that a 35-inch AT tire weighs 85 to 140 pounds? Can you manhandle that? And what if you twist a muscle and injure yourself? How are you going to crawl back into your car to find a satellite communicator to call for help?
The only place that it is safe to practice offroading alone is at a bona fide OHV park on a busy day. Those trails are patrolled by local park rangers, not to mention multitudes of other offroaders that you can wave down.
Our best advice is to find a local offroading club and go out on their “training runs”. You won’t embarrass yourself, and they will show you the ropes.
What is the list of gear that I need to purchase before being able to begin offroading?
Good, heavy duty AT or MT tires! Other than that, you do not need to go shopping quite yet. You do not have to be fully outfitted, so long as other people bring the toys. As you get more experience on runs, you will figure out what gear to carry in your own vehicle. Learn first; purchase later.