Save your Jeep brakes: AutoStick M-mode
Toggle the shifter to the left in order to switch to Manual (AutoStick) mode on your Jeep Wrangler JL.
Written by Fred Ginsburg
Many beginners are not familiar with “manual” shifting in their automatic transmission equipped Jeeps. Our Jeeps came from the factory with eight speed automatic transmissions that work seamlessly as we drive and shift more accurately than most human drivers. So why would we want to temporarily go “manual” and try to beat the computer?
Because the computer controlling our automatic transmission was programmed for everyday street driving and cannot analyze upcoming road conditions.
As humans, we can see quite a distance ahead and can predict whether we will need to slow down for tight curves along descending switchbacks, or to maximize torque to climb a dirt hill, clamber over an obstacle, or to use our engine instead of our brakes to control a steep descent.
Yes, you could leave your Jeep in automatic, and the computer will eventually get you into a good gear for that hill climb or rock crawl. But it is a lot more efficient to make that decision BEFORE your Jeep struggles or you ride the brakes.
“As a Trail Leader or driving coach, I alert beginning offroaders to take advantage of the Jeep’s “manual mode” and suggest what gear to use.”
Jeep calls this semi-manual transmission control AUTOSTICK, but other common names for this feature include: Sports Mode, M-mode, paddle shifter. It allows the driver to select a transmission gear (1-8) without dealing with clutch pedals. The computer also protects against damaging the transmission should the driver attempt to grossly shift incorrectly.
Here is an excerpt from my Wrangler Sahara’s MOPAR owners guide:
“AutoStick AutoStick is a driver-interactive transmission feature providing manual shift control, giving you more control of the vehicle. AutoStick allows you to maximize engine braking, eliminate undesirable upshifts and downshifts, and improve overall vehicle performance. This system can also provide you with more control during passing, city driving, cold slippery conditions, mountain driving, trailer towing, and many other situations.
Operation To activate AutoStick mode, move the gear selector into the MANUAL (M) position (beside the DRIVE position). The current transmission gear will be displayed in the instrument cluster. In AutoStick mode, you can use the gear selector (in the MANUAL position) to manually shift the transmission.
AutoStick mode has the following operational benefits:
The transmission will automatically down shift as the vehicle slows (to prevent engine lugging) and will display the current gear.
The transmission will automatically down shift to FIRST gear when coming to a stop. After a stop, the driver should manually upshift (+) the transmission as the vehicle is accelerated. You can start out, from a stop, in FIRST or SECOND gear (or THIRD gear, in 4WD Low range). Tapping (+) (at a stop) will allow starting in SECOND gear. Starting out in SECOND or THIRD gear can be helpful in snowy or icy conditions.
If a requested downshift would cause the engine to over-speed, that shift will not occur. The system will ignore attempts to upshift at too low of a vehicle speed. Holding the gear selector in the (-) position will downshift the transmission to the lowest gear possible at the current speed. Transmission shifting will be more noticeable when AutoStick is enabled. The system may revert to automatic shift mode if a fault or overheat condition is detected.
NOTE: When Hill Descent Control is enabled, AutoStick is not active. To disengage AutoStick mode, return the gear selector to the DRIVE position. You can shift in or out of the AutoStick position at any time without taking your foot off the accelerator pedal.”
Let’s translate this into layman’s language.
M-mode (many of us prefer that term over AutoStick) is available for all of your transfer case choices: 2WD, 4WD-Hi, 4WD-Low. It doesn’t matter if you are offroad or highway cruising along the interstate.
To engage M-mode, you need to be in Drive. Just tap the transmission shifter (P-R-N-D) towards the driver. The base of the shifter lever reads M+/- on the left side, next to D.
At that time, the driver’s dashboard display will change from D to M, and indicate which manual gear you are now in (based on what automatic gear you were in prior to going manual). So, if you were cruising in D4, the M-mode would read M4.
As your vehicle increases speed, you would normally want to up-shift your transmission into a higher gear, such as M5-M8. The higher the gear, the faster you can go, but the less torque is applied. Lower gears equate to more torque, but slower speed.
For normal driving conditions, just leave it in Drive and don’t worry about it. And you can switch from M-mode to (automatic) D at any time, on the fly, just by tapping the shifter to the right (away from the driver).
If you want to change your manual gear, you merely tap the shifter forward (away from the driver) to select a lower gear; or pull it rearwards towards the driver to increase the gear. There is no clutch. And if you attempt to shift into too low a gear (based on your current speed) or too high a gear – the car won’t let you!
When your car is at a standstill, more torque is required to gain momentum. That is first gear (M1); or in the case of Jeeps on level ground, maybe even second gear (M2). M1 is roughly 0-5mph. M2 could be 0-10mph. M3 would be the next speed range, roughly 15mph to 25mph.
Shifting is actually not based on speed, but on engine RPM. Your tachometer (and sound of the engine revving) should be your indicator when to shift. As your speed increases, the engine will rev at higher RPM, which tells you that it is no longer efficient. Your selected gear is providing more torque than needed to sustain momentum, and the engine has to turn faster in order to increase wheel speed. Time to shift into a higher gear, so that there is less torque but better wheel speed.
The concept of down shifting is this principle in reverse. There are two ways to slow down your vehicle: hit the brakes, or use the energy of your engine to increase the resistance to your wheels by trading torque for speed.
I know, this sounds confusing so far. Stay with me a little longer.
Unless you are on a racetrack, you only need to learn your way around M1-M3. Any situation that might involve M4 or higher you can just switch back to D and let the computer handle it.
Use M1 if you are not moving, and about to climb a hill or crawl over an obstacle. M1 will limit your speed to just a few mph, but will maximize the power sent to your axles. It is the trade-off between torque versus speed. In a situation like this, you do not need overall speed, but you do want maximum climbing power to conquer steep hills or to crawl up rocks.
M1 works very well in 4WD-Hi, and even better in 4WD-Low.
After you clear the top of the hill or make it through the rock garden – you will not need M1. You could switch back to Drive. Or, if your car has momentum and is no longer struggling to climb things, you can shift into M2, and eventually into M3 if the road is fairly level and smooth.
Coming down the other side of that hill, you may find yourself continuously applying the brakes to control your descent. Riding the brakes too much is not good and will wear them out ($$$). Use the M1 or M2 gears to force your engine to slow you down. From time to time, you will still need to tap the brakes, but for most of the descent you can leave your foot off the pedal.
When you reach the bottom, you can shift back to Drive or raise your manual gear to M2 or M3 (depending on how fast you want to go). I find myself not even using the gas pedal but just letting my Jeep coast along.
Switchbacks on mountainous roads (be they paved or dirt) can be challenging in Drive. Especially working your way down. You naturally pick up speed on the slope, and then find yourself heading into tight curves that demand deceleration. Avoid excessive braking by using M3 or M2 to restrict your downward speed. When you level out, you can increase your gear or just flip back to Drive.
Going up paved inclines on these mountain passes usually can be done in Drive. But as you get more familiar with shift patterns, you will see the efficiency (and fun) of choosing a lower gear for climbs.
Manual shifting (especially with a clutch) can be a pain in the city, but “paddle shifting” while offroading offers you more control and exhilaration. Don’t be afraid to try it. Tell your Trail Leader that you are new to it, so that he or she can provide coaching until you get the hang of it.
